How To Use An Inkle Loom

Main Image

There are a myriad uses for narrow inkle bands: trim, ties, straps, laces, etc.

If you're inkle weaving for the get-go fourth dimension, this commodity will aid yous go started. More than experienced weavers volition notice the list of projection ideas at the end total of enticing possibilities.

Though designs vary, an inkle loom typically has two upright beams and one bottom beam. Several pegs are set into these beams. Ane of these pegs carries cord heddles which attach to every other warp-thread. These make it possible for you to open an up shed and a down shed. At that place will besides be a device for tensioning the warp, unremarkably either a peg that slides along a slot, or a flat paddle that rotates.

(Editor'southward Notation: You can come across examples of ii types of inkle loom in the article Inkle-loom Shoelaces.)

Inkle looms produce warp-faced bands in which the warp completely covers the weft, except for one "stitch" at the side of the band.

Project Details

To illustrate how to use an inkle loom, let's create a elementary rainbow-colored strap.

This commodity sponsored past: [[advertizing|grouping=383]]

Equipment

Inkle loom
Belt shuttle or ruler to beat the weft in. (Another option is to use sanding paper to bevel one edge of a stick shuttle.)
Tapestry needle to assistance in weaving in warp ends. (optional)

Warp

Shetland 8/4 wool from Harrisville Designs, in the colors: red, orange, yellowish, dark-green, turquoise, blue, violet, royal.

[Editor'southward Note: You could likewise weave this in 5/2 perle cotton, or any strong, smooth thread.]

Warp six threads of each color in the order listed in a higher place. (48 threads total.)

Weft

Shetland eight/4 wool in black.

Making String Heddles

Before y'all tin warp your inkle loom for the first time, you must make string heddles.

Use something that does not stretch, and which is smooth enough to permit the warp threads slide through with a minimum of friction as the warp advances. Some good options: cotton rug warp, mercerized cotton, or linen.

measuring a string heddle Brand a tight loop between the acme 2 pegs of the upright in the eye of the loom, and knot it.

For extra strength, I use a surgeon'south knot to tie my string heddles. It's like a square knot, but with an extra twist on one side.

Cut the ends off the knot, leaving no more i/4-inch dangling. Make half as many string heddles every bit there are warp threads in your planned projection.

Each heddle should be a separate loop; don't leave them connected between knots. When you've finished, slip the string heddles off the loom.

Warping the Loom

Earlier y'all start warping, set the inkle loom's tension device in the position that gives y'all the longest warp path. Every bit you weave, the warp will shorten due to accept up (ie: having to curve over and nether the weft) and yous volition loosen the tension device—either sliding the peg in or turning the paddle—to continue the weaving tension fifty-fifty.

You thread the warp onto the inkle loom in a continuous loop. Brainstorm at the front peg, and bring the warp thread all the way along the lesser and effectually the backmost peg.

Next, wind the warp back and forth between the pegs along the bottom of the loom and the back upright, moving upward from the back bottom corner peg. For a long warp, air current effectually every peg, for a shorter warp, skip some pegs.

Bring the starting time warp thread over the height peg of the eye axle, and necktie it back onto itself with a square knot—you simply need to necktie a new knot when you brainstorm, change colors, and at the end of warping. Brand sure you don't tie the warp to the loom, since you will be pulling the warp forward around the loom equally the weaving progresses.

Take a string heddle, slip an open loop of it onto the second peg down on the central upright, toss the other cease over this first warp thread, and tuck the other end of the loop onto the lower peg on the front upright. The loop of the string heddle should come up over the upper warp thread, and pull it downwardly at an bending.

warping the loom

Continue around, following the path you created with the first warp. Do not identify a cord heddle on the 2nd warp thread. Non-heddle threads go under the meridian peg on the front upright (shown above).

Continue warping in the same path, alternating heddle and non-heddle threads. Tie on new threads with a square knot as you lot change colors, and on the last warp thread.

Equally your warp grows, all the warp threads should prevarication in a airplane, practice non let the warp threads pile upwardly on each other on the dowels, as this volition create uneven tension because some threads volition exist longer than others.

Get-go to Weave

You tin can use a stick shuttle to bear the weft, or you tin make a butterfly skein made on your hand in a figure-eight around your thumb and little finger, tied at the middle.

Put your mitt on the non-heddle warp threads and printing down to brand the "downwards" shed.

Think most whether you want your ring to accept fringes, and if then, leave that much space between the beginning of your weaving and the knots at the forepart of the loom.

Pass the weft through the shed.

In this first weft pick, leave a tail of the cut end about six inches long. You'll tuck this into the 2nd pick to keep the weft from unraveling when you lot cut the band off the loom.

up shed Now pull the not-heddle warp threads up to create the up shed.

Note with glee how the heddle threads stay in the centre, making these ii sheds possible. In inkle weaving, the heddle threads are anchored in place and the non-heddle threads movement to open up the two sheds.

Beat the weft that you threw in the previous stride down, using a stick shuttle, ruler, or even your finger.

I enjoy the easily-on feel of beating my shed with my hands on an inkle; but at that place are also many shapes of stick and belt shuttles—ofttimes mitt-made in beautiful woods—available for inkle weaving.

Advancing the Warp

Keep alternating the sheds and chirapsia in weft until the woven function of the band gets upwards to the heddles. At this signal y'all need to finish, loosen the tension device, and pull the warp forward so that the woven function slides forrad and out of your way. The whole warp volition rotate along its path on the loom, which is why it was important not to tie the warp to the loom while putting the warp on.

After you've avant-garde the warp, re-apply the tension. You'll likely find that you demand to modify the position of the tension device from where it was earlier you moved the warp, because the warp will have shortened during the weaving because of accept-up.

A Tip for Securing New Weft Threads

starting to weave Pass both the tail and the working weft across this second shed, change to the lower shed again, and once again, tamp downwards with your finger or shuttle all the way from before the heddles to where the alive thread crossing lies. Cantankerous the tail and working weft once more, and then leave the tail dangling; you'll trim it shut to the selvedge after y'all take the band off the loom. Add new weft threads in this way; and you never accept to knot the weft.

Troubleshooting

I of the most common errors is to weave the commencement few inches either a fiddling too loose or way too tight.

Y'all should tug the weft tight enough that all the warp ends nestle close to each other, without overlapping (too tight) or showing the weft betwixt them (too loose.) The band pictured at the correct shows a dainty, fifty-fifty, weave.

Another common beginner'southward error is an uneven or angled beat—make sure to open your shed and beat in your weft perpendicular to the warp threads.

Effort to keep your trounce even during the weaving. Each pick of weft should take up the same amount of warp. If the warp floating over the weft is longer and looser than the other rows, beat more firmly. If the warp floating over the weft looks shorter and bunched, beat looser.

An fifty-fifty beat, skillful selvedges, these are musculus-retentivity skills that volition go 2d nature with exercise. So if your first inkle band is a bit uneven and wobbly, don't fret...you volition improve on the next one!

Y'all can arrange gently as yous become, and notice whether you pull tighter on one side or some other then you tin even things out and brand parallel rows.

Finishing

You lot tin can finish off the ends of an inkle band by hemming, tying overhand knots, or simply letting the warp ends hang loose. (Weave the last weft end back into the band to secure the end as you did at the get-go of the band.)

Some folks observe that using a tapestry needle with a big heart is the easiest style to weave the weft terminate dorsum in, at either finish of the band.

finishes

What can y'all brand?

Belts
Guitar/Mandolin straps
Baggage ties
Formal neckties
Bow-ties
Neckbands
Jacket facings
Bookmarks
Needle cases
Cell phone cases
Wallets
Striped coats and vests: sew many inkles together!
Hatbands
Handbag and pocketbook straps
Purses and numberless themselves
Morris-trip the light fantastic bell pads
Placemats and table runners (by weaving strips together)
Prize and honors ribbons
Costume pieces
Trim
Belly-dance belts
Fringes (leave weft loops on one side)
Laces for shoes—or lingerie!

Resources

Byways in Handweaving past Mary Miegs Atwater
Inkle Weaving by Lavinia Bradley
Inkle Weaving by Helene Bress
Textiles and Wear : c.1150-c.1450 by Crowfoot, Elisabeth, Pritchard, Frances, & Staniland, Kay (shows medieval box-looms)
The Gilmore Loom website'southward history page
LeClerc's English-style inkle loom
Weaving Inkle Bands past Harriet Tidball
"Inkle-Woven Shoelaces" by Brianna Lancaster

Ruth Temple Ruth is a 2d-generation weaver and fiber artist. She lives, gardens, and is gleefully setting up a woodshop in Redwood City, CA with her partner Lise M. Dyckman. In addition to spinning, weaving, and basketry, she messes nigh with various combinations of beading, camping ground, writing, singing, and playing dabble for dance. You lot can larn more most Ruth and her art at her journal site.